spring forward, fall backward
Not content to remain in the shadow of Europe fashion-wise, cosmopolitan Moscow’s Fashion Week each year makes a bigger splash on the world scene. From March 29 to April 7, the homeland’s finest Fall-Winter 2006/2007 collections debut.
TEXT SONYA RINKUS feedback
Regular Muscovites sleep well at night with the knowledge that we are on the slow ascent out of cold weather and into the glorious springtime. The fashion world’s time clock, however, is set further ahead — in their parallel universe, the plunge into cold has started anew. People are scrambling to clothe themselves appropriately and hence, the Fall-Winter 2006/2007 collections are unveiled. Following in the footsteps of the world’s major metropolises — London, Paris, New York — Moscow hosts a Fashion Week, now in its ninth season, highlighting the best of what homeland designers have on offer to wear in approximately six months time. While by no means the magnitude of the most prominent Fashion Weeks, Russian Fashion Week (RFW) is the largest event of its kind in Eastern Europe, and hit a particular high last fall with 58 strong collections. For the Russian fashion world, one of the biggest obstacles to overcome may be internal prejudices, that is, convincing the buying public and even themselves that homeland designers are just as valuable as their Western European counterparts. The prototypical Mosocw fashionista will happily sport the Dolce & Gabbana bag or a Burberry trenchcoat, but owns no items from her own country’s label makers. RFW general producer Alexander Shumsky acknowledges that discrepancy, but argues that the tides are turning. “Moscow is an international city, it is a destination. I believe RFW has played a strong role in the evolution of Moscow and Russia as a whole. We have seen a phenomenal influx of revered brands, while simultaneously growing and exporting our own,” he says in a press statement. In the upcoming week, the pavilions on Vasilievsky Spusk, a stone’s throw from Red Square, will house shows from a melange of talents: primarily veterans but with some new faces, and predominantly from Russia or the former Soviet republics, but with the odd foreigner throw in as well. Nadya Nuriyeva is one up-and-coming Russian designer who made a splash at last season’s RFW with her debut Spring-Summer 2006 collection “…I Naoborot” (…And Vice Versa). This time around, her collection is called “… I Snova” (… And Once Again), a creative response to her first work. “For summer, I opted for cool shades because, in hot weather, we dream of coolness. And the winter collection features a lot of warm shades, textures and fabrics. It’s very cozy,” said Nuriyeva in a press statement. One snuggly winter item she’s presenting, which almost makes you wish the cold weather would stick around longer (but not quite) is a 25-meter knitted scarf. Nuriyeva’s newest collection premieres at 5 p.m. on March 31. Design duo Yelizaveta Sokolova and Yevgenia Bogorodskaya reached back into the capital’s own fashion history for inspiration for their latest collection. Examining 1930s Moscow, they were attracted to the simplicity and functionality of Soviet attire. In addition to utilitarian sweater-dresses and jumpers, the SokolovaBogorodskaya line features shawls embellished with ‘30s style Soviet ornaments. When their collection premieres at 7 p.m. on March 30, the designers promise that some audience members will take home free shawls from their new collection. Three provocative male names from the Russian fashion world also return with colorful collections: Max Chernitsov, Yegor Zaitsev and Fresh Art. Chernitsov’s playful designs enjoy shelf space at TsUM amongst big name Italian brands, a unique distinction for a Russian designer. This RFW veteran’s latest collection will be premiered at 9:30 p.m. on March 30. Zaitsev, known for his eccentric designs, names the main centerpiece of his upcoming collection as “padded prisoner-like jackets.” Unlike in previous years, in which bizarre designs defied all limits of practicality, the designer promises, “Every piece of the collection will be wearable, although it will not surely find its way into every citizen’s wardrobe.” His collection comes out on April 5 at 5 p.m. Design trio Fresh Art returns to RFW, although they are probably better-known for their social cavorting that for their fashion. Known individually as Aslan Akhmadov, David Gevorkov and Alexander Siradekia, the three designers cut a striking image: each with long dreadlocks, piercing blue contact lenses and impossibly deep tans. Their latest collection will premiere on an undisclosed day and time. While the spotlight is indeed on homeland designers, 15 % of RFW is reserved for outstanding collections by non-Russian designers. Two British design queens, Zandra Rhodes and Jenny Packham, will show off their wares at this season’s RFW. Rhodes’ exotic and theatrical designs made her a name back in the ‘70s, and she continues to produce new works (and maintain her own hair a bright shade of red, green or any other shocking color). Her collection at 4 p.m. on March 30 will be the first shown at RFW. Lastly, Jenny Packham, known for her eveningwear, is a favorite of Hollywood fashion icons such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Halle Berry. Her luxurious collection, which combines ‘30s silver screen glamour with the flamboyance of the ‘70s, already premiered at Milan Fashion Week in February, but will be run again in Moscow at 6 p.m. on April 2. Russian pop singer Valeriya, for whom Packham especially designed a dress, will take part in the show. For a full list of RFW events, log on to www.rfw.ru |
